After weeks of planning, emailing, and Zooming, here’s what we at Vogue Runway know about the fall 2022 season in New York: It will be unlike any before. With smaller shows, tighter COVID precautions, and big names missing from the official calendar, New York Fashion Week feels on shaky footing. Or maybe not….
With top designers sitting this week out, the stretch of shows from February 11 to February 16 is largely populated by emerging talents with non-traditional takes on what a fashion show—and a fashion week—could look like. New York has always been more experimental than traditional Fashion Weeks in Milan and Paris, and this season has potential to see the pendulum swing even more in favor of younger designers and hybrid physical-digital events. Haloed by a week of talks and programming from IMG and an ever-growing digital community of fashion lovers, NYFW has potential to make news—and not just for what happens on the runway.
Here’s what to think about as we ramp up to the first major Fashion Week of the fall 2022 season.
What Will We Get From Shayne Oliver?
Almost two years after the news that Hood by Air would return, Shayne Oliver is ready to launch his first runway collection. First’s thing first: It’s not called Hood by Air anymore. Instead, Oliver will continue to produce his version of essentials at HBA and is rebranding his high fashion imprint as SHAYNEOLIVER. The clothes will get their debut at an event at The Shed on February 11 at 9 p.m.
The fashion-show-cum-performance is the centerpiece of Oliver’s three-night takeover of the space. On the 10th, he will spotlight influential figures in the HBA emerging artists think tank Anonymous Club, “as well as pay homage to central people from [his] past,” per the Shed’s site. On the 11th, the SHAYNEOLIVER runway show will be accompanied by new music from Wench, Oliver’s ongoing musical collaboration with the Venezuelan musician Arca. The evening of the 12th will feature “Club,” where Oliver will share sounds from his own musical project Leech.
And Speaking of The Shed, Is It All About Events This Season?
Oliver has typically taken a non-traditional approach to the runway, staging party-presentations throughout Hood by Air’s initial run. Ditto for Telfar Clemens, whose concerts at a helicopter pad on the East River and Irving Plaza fused fashion with other mediums. This season, Clemens is expected to stage another event-show similar to last season’s Telfar TV press conference, at 6 p.m. on February 16. Others are transforming their runways into something more; Batsheva will host an intimate performance on February 13. Collina Strada’s event on the 16th is expected to blur IRL and URL, while the evening of February 10th is packed down to the minute with parties at Saks (hosted by Julia Fox), Nordstrom (to toast new fashion director Rickie de Sole), Chloé, Gucci, and more. Maybe the show isn’t the thing?
Or Is It All About Meta?
The pandemic birthed many new ways of presenting fashion online, from Hanifa’s digitally rendered show to Carolina Sarrias’s virtual runway on Animal Crossing. As shows resume with in-person guests, will fashion’s digital-fixation continue? Young designer Maisie Wilen is taking a phygital approach to her fall 2022 collection, partnering with Yahoo on a virtual installation that will debut February 12 at 5 p.m. First of their kind holograms will wear Wilen’s latest collection, bringing the digital into a physical space in a new way—for fashion, at least.
Meanwhile, interest in NFTs is only rising. Alexandre Arnault, the CEO of Tiffany’s, recently debuted his own NFT avatar on Instagram while our colleagues at Vogue Business are tracking every NFT launch from Dolce & Gabbana to Givenchy and beyond. How long until NFT sneakers are the star of a NYFW show?
Who’s Missing From the Schedule—And Who Are the New Names to Know?
With gaps in the schedule left by the absence of Tom Ford (who is postponing due to Covid-related production issues), Thom Browne (who has realigned his show dates to coordinate with the Met Gala), Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Pyer Moss, Christopher John Rogers—the list goes on—the time is nigh for New York’s new gen. Well loved brands like Collina Strada and Puppets & Puppets are graduating to be mainstays of the week, with a new cast of emerging talents stepping up.